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TIME: Almanac 1995
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<text id=89TT0593>
<title>
Feb. 27, 1989: Wait'll We Tell The Folks Back Home
</title>
<history>
TIME--The Weekly Newsmagazine--1989
Feb. 27, 1989 The Ayatullah Orders A Hit
</history>
<article>
<source>Time Magazine</source>
<hdr>
TRAVEL, Page 71
Wait'll We Tell the Folks Back Home
</hdr><body>
<p>What $360 million buys these days in luxury and fantasy
</p>
<p>By Nancy Gibbs
</p>
<p> Times must be tough for jaded travelers. There are not many
places left on this earth that still confer bragging rights now
that Katmandu has as many package tours as Atlantic City and
darkest Africa is bright with flashbulbs. So just in time comes
the spanking-new Hyatt Regency Waikoloa on the lee shore of the
Big Island of Hawaii. At $360 million, it is the most expensive
resort ever built. But that's not, even nearly, all.
</p>
<p> Guests at the oceanside Hyatt are festooned with exotic
flowers and offered colorful concoctions before they reach the
check-in desk of the half-indoor, half-outdoor lobby. (What
would you do with those lovely rugs after a driving rain?
Replace them, replies the managing director, smug as a puffin.)
To reach their rooms, guests can board a bullet-nosed monorail
tram or take a boat along the canal that runs the mile-long
stretch of the resort. Crispy captains in white shorts and knee
socks pretend to steer, clanging the ship's bell, but the boat
is actually guided by wheels running along a 19-in. groove
underwater. "Disneyland changed the way people view
entertainment," muses Amy Katoh, who is visiting Hawaii from
Tokyo with her husband Yuichi. "And this place will change the
way people think about resorts."
</p>
<p> That is exactly what Hyatt had in mind. Hawaii, the
sunshine's circus, attracts more American vacationers in winter
than any other destination, and this hotel is fast becoming a
main event. For their many millions, Hyatt transformed a stark
moonscape of black lava rock with not so much as a sprig of
vegetation into a 62-acre tropical garden, ringed by three
towers, 1,241 rooms, seven restaurants, 75,000 sq. ft. of
convention space, a 17,500-sq.-ft. health spa, 1,640
transplanted coconut-palm trees at $1,000 apiece and water
everywhere else. The design is the work of Christopher
Hemmeter, a sort of revolutionary in the resort business. His
tastes run toward the liquid: private lagoons full of sociable
fish, waterfalls, whirlpools, water slides and vast, curvaceous
pools. Distinction lies in myriad details, like the seven bird
keepers who ensure that the 27 pink flamingos get enough
carotene in their diet so that they don't fade to beige.
</p>
<p> But other resorts offer tropical splendors and offbeat
birds. The Hyatt hunch is that today's travelers are in
desperate search of an Experience, a made-to-order memory, and
are willing to pay $265 a night for the average room to $2,500
for a presidential suite in order to find it. From that belief
was born their Fantasy Resort, which promises to change the way
many superluxe hotels do business. After much campfire
brainstorming, the Waikoloa staff came up with a menu of
activities, priced them fantastically and still cannot always
keep up with demand. Though roughly half the guests at any
given time are there on business, they still seem willing to
spend whatever free time and discretionary income they have on
making their trip memorable. "There's an ego boost in going home
saying `We took a helicopter to a remote spot and had a picnic
just for two,' " observes Patrick Cowell, a regional vice
president of Hyatt Resorts Hawaii and the hotel's managing
director. "Can't you imagine that kind of story in the Des
Moines bridge circle?"
</p>
<p> Guests can choose a hunting safari for wild boar, goats or
pheasant on the slopes of Mauna Kea ($550 for the first person,
$200 each for the next three). The game will be dressed and
served for dinner that night, or shipped home upon request. Or
deep-sea fishing on a luxury yacht ($1,380 for up to six
people), Formula Ford race-car driving (not available until
April), a day in the saddle with the paniolos (Hawaiian
cowboys) of the vast Kahua Ranch ($1,460 for four) or dinner at
the Hulihee Palace, former home of the Hawaiian royalty ($1,995
for four). Visitors can also watch whales or sunsets or
moonrises from the deck of the 50-ft. catamaran Noa Noa, with
its two amiable skippers and well-stocked bar.
</p>
<p> Some of the most spectacular scenery on the largely
undeveloped 4,038-sq.-mi. island -- the gizzards of an active
volcano, for instance, or thousand-foot cliffs of the Kohala
coast -- is virtually inaccessible to all but island birds and
their kin, which includes the Bell JetRanger III helicopter.
For a mere $1,380, the copter will take four people on a tour,
complete with a champagne picnic on windswept Lauhala Point and a
view right into the maw of the active volcano Kilauea. This
jaunt is not for the faint of heart or weak of knee. When the
tree line below suddenly drops away, leaving the swaying copter
to swoop deep into an amphitheater of waterfalls, even the rush
of peaceable New Age music injected through the passenger
headphones may fail to tranquilize a white-knuckle flyer.
</p>
<p> Perhaps the most popular fantasy of all involves a visit
with the resort's most distinguished guests: eight Atlantic
bottle-nosed dolphins, in residence under the care of
marine-mammal veterinarians Rae Stone and Jay Sweeney. Rather
than ricocheting around a concrete pool, the dolphins frolic in
a protected saltwater lagoon. "Everything about this place is
fake, except for the dolphins," observes a guest wryly, as she
wanders by. The Dolphin Quest program offers a model environment
for research and study, as well as a unique aquatic encounter
for the guests. "These animals can humble anyone," says trainer
Christian Harris. "Guests may arrive at the dock complaining
about something or other, but they get in the water with the
dolphins and are smiling in about ten seconds."
</p>
<p> At $55 for half an hour, the dolphin encounter strikes many
guests as a bargain -- enough, at least, to ensure that there is
usually a waiting list for a spot on the dock. Reservations at
the restaurants are also hard to come by when the hotel is full,
but the relentlessly eager staff has invented a solution:
Vacations by Design. Upon arrival, guests check off all the
activities and restaurants they want to try, and the Aloha
Services staff will make all the reservations and print up a
schedule. "And you know what?" says manager Cowell. "This will
be happening in most resort hotels in the future. It's going to
end up being a standard service."
</p>
<p> If this kind of resort really is the wave of the future,
other hotel chains may be hard pressed to ride it. The
landscaping alone at the Hyatt Regency Waikoloa cost $4.5
million, and to run smoothly the hotel needs nearly two staff
members for each guest. But Hyatt is convinced that it has
found a gold mine. Over the next five years, the company plans
to develop 25 more luxury resorts worth a total of $3 billion.
Developer Hemmeter himself has ten more megaresorts in the
works. "We're now planning hotels that go way beyond this one,"
he says. Which can only mean setting up shop on the lee shore of
the moon.
</p>
</body></article>
</text>